![]() Ride for about an hour then retighten, especially if this is new Hardware. Remember lots of grease on everything or these euro bottom brackets will get creaky. Redline Flight Cranks Double Pinch, W/Spindle 180mm Old Mid School Haro Hutch. Lastly, tighten the outer bolt so everything is tight and locked in place.ĭouble check your alignments and fix spacing as needed with your pile of misc. Do this right! Snug the outer bolt so the arm is in place, back it off, tighten the 2 pinch bolts as you would a stem, notice that the bolts are small so don’t use gorilla force or they’ll strip. Proper tightening technique! This is why you see old flights with cracked arms. add spacers until you like the spacing compared to the drive arm The larger sloped spacer is necessary against the bearing and you need the shaft to be slightly shorter than the inner surface of the arm so you have room to tighten. No right answer, just good judgment.Ĭheck alignment for the non-drive arm. This is where you have to decide how thick a spacer you need between the drive arm and the bearing. Put the drive side on and check chain alignment, sprocket rub on chain stays and distance of arm to the frame. You do this first because you logically know the arm has to fit flush to the shaft. Pull the drive arm into place by tightening the outer bolt. The shaft should slip through but may take a little coaxing especially if brand new. Be sure the spacer in the middle is free to move as you tighten the bearings, it will try to wedge sideways. I didn’t have a spanner so I wrapped the bearings in an old towel and gently tightened with pliers. >To loosen remember that you turn the bearings the same direction as the tire spins.<<<<. The bearings are Left/Right specific and will both tighten in the same direction. The spacer holds the bearings in place so the spacer length is crucial. Hold up the threaded bearings and spacer against the Bottom Bracket to confirm you have the correct spacer length. Note the 19mm spacer I had to use for the sprocket (pound in by laying flat on wood surface with a nylon spacer between hammer and surface) Here is a quick overview with some logic thrown in….as if you were in the garage with your Pops.Ĭlean threads well then grease heavy with a good grease (I like walmart Slick 50 Teflon grease) I've seen several people say they use them however.I’ve noticed the old school crowd can make a pristine old school bike but we struggle with the new school stuff. The metric spindle is really tight going into the arms compared to early spindles. When the spindle was available, the BB that went with it included bushings that adapted the spindle diameter to fit a 20mm ID bearing.Īfter the late 90's and up to today, Redline's spindle is a true 19mm diameter (which would fit a euro BB), but in my experience, this metric spindle doesn't fit 80's (and 90's) Flight crank arms properly. I'm guessing that if you could fab up some adapter pieces, this spindle could be adapted to a euro BB. It had an uncommon diameter of around 18.8mm, though. The last few years of availability, it looked slightly different but was essentially the same.Īfter that, a straight spindle was stock. That style spindle was used up to about 1992. It used the same hardware as a 1-piece crank would use. The only spindle available in the early 80's was the threaded "dimple" style.
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